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歴史を訪ねて

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歴史を訪ねて

ローマ時代のタッラコから出発し、オリーブの木やぶどう畑の間を通り、コスタ・ドラダ(Costa Daurada)の海岸線に沿って進んでいきます。ここではカンブリス(Cambrils)の魚介料理や、カヌーや自転車でのデルタ・デル・エブロ(Delta de l’Ebre)探検を体験。海岸線を離れ、エブロ川に沿って内陸に入り、ポルツ(Ports)の大自然、ピカソの芸術を堪能し、テラ・アルタ(Terra Alta)のワイン大聖堂やスペインの中でもワインの最高品質の産地であるプリオラート(Priorat)、シトー会のルートにある印象的なポブレー修道院を見学し、最後にリェイダへと向かうコースです。

データ

総距離

418km

区間

7

名所

7

主要なエリア

タラゴナ

レウス(Reus)

エブロ川デルタ地帯自然公園

モダニスム建築のワイナリー

プリオラート

シトー会のルート

リェイダ

区間

第1区間

コスタ・ドラダに君臨したローマ帝国

この区間の出発地であるタラゴナは、歴史ある中心部に保存状態の良い城壁、円形闘技場、ネクロポリスがあり、地中海のバルコニーから、古代ローマ人を魅了した海辺の風景を楽しむことができます。 その先を進んでいくと、ガウディの故郷であるレウスに到着。かつてベルモットの貿易で多くの富を得たこの街は、その資金で様々な建築物が建てられ、リュイス・ドメネク・イ・ムンタネーによる「カサ・ナバス(Casa Navàs)」などが代表的なものとして存在します。 また、精神病院として建てられたペレ・マタ病院(Institut Pere Mata)には、ヨーロッパのアールヌーボーの宝石と呼ばれているパビリオン(Pabellón de los Distinguidos)が展示されています。その後、テーラス・ダ・レブラ(Terres de l’Ebre)へ向かう途中、コスタ・ドラダの美食の中心地とされるカンブリスで、ロメスコソースの魚介の煮込み(Suquet de romesco)を試したり、ポルトアベントゥラ・ワールド(PortAventura World)のアトラクションを楽しんだりすることもできます。

DAWN IN TARRACO

We see the sunrise in Tarragona, a World Heritage city, from the wrought-iron railing known as the Balcó del Mediterrani, one of those perfect sunsets, with the sun on the horizon over the sea, which the Romans once saw as they occupied the stands of the amphitheatre at our feet; the same warm light that led the poet Florus to describe Tarraco as the “city of eternal spring”. Our guide tells us that the stone of the Mèdol quarry on the outskirts of the city was used to construct buildings such as the circus, the praetorium and the walls we are now visiting.

VERMOUTH IN REUS

We travel to the nearby town of Reus, Gaudí’s birthplace, to arrive just in time for a traditional vermouth. They tell us the story of this fermented beverage, transporting us to the days when it was exported to half the world and Reus was, along with Paris and London, one of three cities setting the price of spirits. Leading producers offer guided tours, some of which are dramatised, and product tastings. The days of splendour that the Vermouth brought to the city resulted in numerous commissions from prominent modernist architects. The Modernist Route covers 26 major buildings, including the Casa Navàs, the Casa Rull, the Casa Gasull and the Pere Mata Institute, works by Lluís Domènech i Montaner, and the Casa Anguera by Pere Caselles.

SEAFOOD CUISINE IN CAMBRILS

The unique climate of this diverse coastline, with beaches ranging from fine sand to beautiful rocky shores with turquoise water, invites you to spend the afternoon sailing in a catamaran from the Cambrils Estació Nàutica water sports centre. From the sea, we see the skyline of Salou, a destination featuring excellent beaches and the dizzying roller coasters of PortAventura World, which we promise to ride when we’re back with the little ones in the family. Since we’re in Cambrils, the culinary capital of the Costa Daurada, we can’t leave without trying the delicious suquet de romesco, one of the pillars of the local seafood cuisine.

第2区間

ファンガル(Fangar)の入り江でボートに乗る

コスタ・ドラダ沿いの小さな入り江に佇む町のひとつ、ラメトリャ・デ・マール（Ametlla de Mar）では、地中海のクロマグロと一緒に泳げる、ここでしかできない貴重な体験があります。 また、テーラス・ダ・レブラを訪れた際にはランポーヤ（l’Ampolla）港に立ち寄り、岸から少し離れたところにあるムール貝の養殖場をボートで訪れたり、牡蠣とムール貝のテイスティングが可能です。この区間の最後には、デルタ・デル・エブロにある伝統的な漁船の中で一晩を過ごし、1日を締めくくります。

SWIMMING WITH TUNA

The first stop of the day is in L’Ametlla de Mar, a town on the list of Marine Districts and Villages. Its well-preserved seafaring charm can be seen on a quiet stroll through the lively port and its intimate and varied coves: urban, white sand, rocky, next to lush forests or cobblestones. But today we’re ready for adventure, we pull on a wetsuit for an intriguing activity: swimming among huge specimens of Mediterranean bluefin tuna. We arrive at the pools after a short trip from the coast, during which they give us the basic instructions. It’s a breathtaking experience to see the tuna come out of the deep and swim by us. The activity ends with a tasting of this highly prized fish, which was already used as a source of protein by the Roman legionnaires.

CAMÍ DE RONDA

From the same town, as we head south, there is a beautiful stretch of the Camí de Ronda that we will follow to see some of the best-preserved corners of the Catalan coast. The easy route follows the GR-92 and gives us access to beautiful coves of red rock and crystal clear water. We continue to the nearby village of El Perelló, where we dress in bee-keepers’ clothes to enter the complex world of beehives where high-quality honey is produced, and learn to make honey-based pastries.

OYSTER TASTING

A boat awaits at the port of L’Ampolla to sail through Fangar Bay and sample the very freshest mussels and oysters, straight from the mussel farms where they are grown. We choose to stay the night in an old hut, the traditional house of the rice paddies, refurbished to host guests. In the evening with a glass of the white Grenache wine that grows so well in Terra Alta and flooded rice paddies reflecting the sky, we enjoy one of the best sunsets we’ve seen yet.

第3区間

デルタ・デル・エブロとピカソの芸術

カタルーニャ州で最も重要な水性生物の生息域であるエブロ川デルタ地帯自然公園に行くと、これまでの景色と一変します。水田と広大な平野が広がり、砂丘や川辺の森、沿岸の潟湖とともに様々な動物が共存しているのです。 そんな自然豊かな環境の中でハイキングやサイクリング、カヌーや乗馬体験ができる他、300種以上の海鳥も見ることもできます。 近隣にあるトルトサ(Tortosa)まで足を伸ばすと、今度はユダヤの遺跡と中世の壮大な景観が広がります。この町は16世紀に興された、文化運動としてのルネサンスの中心地として、カタルーニャ州の中で最も重要な文化と芸術の都でした。ピカソが長い時を過ごし、エルス・ポルツ(Els Ports)自然公園の景色からインスピレーションを受けたオルタ・ダ・サンジョアンで、この区間を終えます。

BIRDWATCHING

There are many options and activities for learning about the delta, boating on the river or sea, pedalling on quiet country roads or learning about rice cultivation. We choose to approach the wildlife of this unique natural space, which means we rise at dawn because we’ve planned an outing to watch birds in the Delta de l’Ebre, and they are much more active in the early hours of the day. With the help of binoculars and a telescope, given to us by our naturalist guide, we observe species such as the Western marsh harrier, the glossy ibis, the grebe, the little grebe and a flock of colourful flamingos. To better understand the delta and the fragility of this valuable natural space that has been declared a Biosphere Reserve —more than 300 bird species nest in or pass through it —we enter MonNatura Delta, an interpretive centre focused on its nature, traditional ways of life and resources.

A STROLL THROUGH TORTOSA

The area surrounding the Delta de l’Ebre has other attractive visits to offer. This is a territory with very old examples of human presence, including cave paintings forming part of the Mediterranean World Heritage and thousand-year-old olive trees, both located between Ulldecona and La Sénia. Located near the sea, Sant Carles de la Ràpita offers a wide range of water sports and the natural beaches of the delta are an invitation to rest and relax. However, we choose to follow the road to the monumental Tortosa, part of the Cities and Towns with Character; the castle, cathedral and remnants of Jewish Quarter certainly earn it that designation. At the modernist Municipal Market there are typical Terres de l’Ebre products available for purchase, and bars where you can taste them. We leave with a bag of traditional angel hair pastissets.

LOOKING FOR PICASSO

In the final hours of the day we near Horta de Sant Joan, the town with which Picasso fell in love. “Everything I know I’ve learned in Horta,” the painter would say. Watching sunset over the Roques de Benet, one of the best-known formations of Els Ports, a natural park ideal for hiking, we can understand what led Picasso to make that claim.

第4区間

エルス・ポルツの景色とともに、自然と歴史を感じる

この区間ではまず、エルス・ポルツ自然公園の木々に囲まれた小道を散歩しながら、森林や、崖、滝を楽しみます。オルタ・ダ・サンジョアンから伸びるサイクリングロードは、テーラス・ダ・レブラにあるいくつかの街や、サファン渓谷(Val de Zafán)グリーンルートに繋がっていき、最終的にはテルエル(Teruel)まで辿り着きます。次の目的地は、ガンデーザ(Gandesa)とピネル・デ・ブライ(Pinell de Brai)にあるワインの大聖堂です。ここは、ワインの生産性と品質を最適化できるよう、ガウディの弟子であるセサル・マルティネルによって設計されたモダニズム建築のセラーです。 さらに、パンドルツ(Pàndols)山脈と カヴァイス(Cavalls)山脈の山間を進むと、スペイン内戦の最も血なまぐさい出来事のエブロの戦いを思い起こさせる風景が広がってきます。詳細はコルベラ・デレブラ(Corbera d’Ebre)の資料館に残されています。

GREENWAY

From Horta de Sant Joan we enter the Val de Zafán Greenway, a very flat cycling route that takes us to Sant Carles de la Ràpita on the original route, or to the delta if we connect to the GR-99 in Tortosa. This version of the route gives us the chance to enjoy the changing landscape of the Terres de l’Ebre, from the Els Ports Natural Park mountain range in the north, passing by the banks of the river Canaletes and its spectacular viaducts, to the plains of the delta and the coast. The ease with which the hired bicycles can be collected at an agreed point leads us to decide to pedal along one of the paths of the Greenway, towards Bot. When we get to this small town we stop at an old German-built railbus that has been converted into a bar.

CATHEDRALS OF WINE

The road connecting the two large Cathedrals of Wine we visit in Terres de l’Ebre, the modernist bodegas of Gandesa and Pinell de Brai, runs along the ravine separating the Pàndols and Cavalls mountain ranges. The beauty of the landscape can’t let us forget that these mountains were the setting for the most famous battle of the Spanish Civil War. To explore the subject further, we can visit the interpretive centre dedicated to the Battle of the Ebre in Corbera d’Ebre, named 115 days which is open all year round.

RIVER KAYAKING

Since arriving at Terres de l’Ebre the river Ebre has kept us company; now it’s time to get in the water and travel a stretch of it in a kayak. The sound of the paddle and birdsong form the soundtrack to a quiet journey that takes us to the spectacular village of Miravet, with its houses and Templar castle hanging over the river. In addition to visiting the castle, we can also take part in a pottery workshop to explore its pottery tradition. After our boating trip, we set off for Priorat. Between the towns of Móra d’Ebre and Móra la Nova we make a short detour, barely ten minutes, to the Iberian settlement of Castellet de Banyoles, where you can see the meandering Ebre and the orchards of the Ribera d’Ebre. The view is especially beautiful during the trees flowering season. The explosion of colour begins in early February with the almond trees and extends to April with cherry and peach trees.

第5区間

ワイングラスで楽しむプリオラート

エブロ川に沿って進むと、テンプル騎士団の城があるミラベットに到着します。そこからは、テーラス・ダ・レブラを縫うように流れる川の壮観な風景を見下ろすことができます。川の流れを利用し、平底船で歩行者と最大３台までの車を運ぶことができます。その後、川と平行に走る道を使ってティビッ8サTivissa)にあるカステリェット・デ・バニョレス(Castellet de Banyoles)まで移動。カタルーニャ州内で最も大きなイベリア半島の城塞がある村に立ち寄ります。 ワインの産地の素晴らしい景色が広がる曲がりくねった道を通り、モンサン(Montsant)山脈に入ります。この区間の主役であるDOQプリオラートとDOモンサンの段々畑の風景を目にすることができます。また、ファルセットやグラタヨップス(Gratallops)、ヴィエラ・アルタ(Vilella Alta)、トロージャ・デ・プリオラート(Torroja del Priorat)などの小さな村には、モダニズム建築のワインセラーが数多くあるため、地元のワインと一緒にボリュームたっぷりのブランチを楽しみましょう。そして、スカラ・デイ(Scala Dei)修道院を訪れれば、プリオラート産ワインの起源も学ぶことができます。

THE PRIORAT VINEYARD

We’ve entered the district of Priorat, home to the famous wines of the D.O. Montsant and the D.O.Q. Priorat, driving on a road overlooking Montsant. The first light of day tints the crest of the rocky massif red. There are many activities available in Priorat to discover the thrilling world of wine and its production. We have decided to start with the historical side and stop at the Falset-Marçà cooperative, another of modernist cellar like those visited the previous day. As we wait for the guide to start the visit, Blai, a “worker”, introduces himself and gives us a funny explanation of the wine making process. From Falset we embark on a journey along one of the most spectacular roads in the districts of the Costa Daurada with views of the terraces of the Priorat vineyard and the villages of Gratallops, La Vilella Alta and La Vilella Baixa, among others. We save some villages that deserve their own visit and require a short detour from the route for the next trip, such as Porrera, Torroja del Priorat or Cabacés.

THE LANDS OF MONTSANT

At the foot of the Montsant, before we reach Poboleda, another of the beautiful towns of Priorat, we find Escaladei. The peninsula’s first monastery, named after the Priorat district, tells us about the former monks and hermits of what is now the Montsant Natural Park, a mountain range full of symbolism and beloved by climbers from all over the world. In the accommodation they told us about an excursion from La Morera de Montsant, ascending to Montsant via the Barrots path, a short hiking route that runs from Morera de Montsant to Balcó del Priorat, a natural terrace formed from the rock with panoramic views over the district. We save this for the next trip because we want to enjoy the afternoon in Siurana, a Charming Village, with its little hamlet on the cliff’s edge and a stunning view of the reservoir. As the tour guide talks about the Saracens who came to the town, on the mountain opposite climbers test themselves against some of the world’s most prestigious climbing routes.

TO MONTBLANC

The route continues to Montblanc via Prades, another Charming Village. Surrounded by a precious natural environment, the town is also known as the Villa Roja because of the characteristic red stone colour of many of its buildings. By taking a short detour, just seven kilometres from Prades, we can visit Capafonts, where they offer the chance to spend a few hours as a shepherd learn how to make cheese.

第6区間

プラデス(Prades)連峰のスピリチュアリティと岩のアート

この区間ではまず、エルス・ポルツ自然公園の木々に囲まれた小道を散歩しながら、森林や、崖、滝を楽しみます。オルタ・ダ・サンジョアンから伸びるサイクリングロードは、テーラス・ダ・レブラにあるいくつかの街や、サファン渓谷(Val de Zafán)グリーンルートに繋がっていき、最終的にはテルエル(Teruel)まで辿り着きます。次の目的地は、ガンデーザ(Gandesa)とピネル・デ・

AN EXCELLENT BREAKFAST

The day kicks off in Montblanc with a generous breakfast served in a wine cellar.

Pa amb tomàquet and extra virgin olive oil, black and white botifarra sausage, dried llonganissa sausage, cheeses, olives, nuts and a little wine are a safe bet to start the day off right. Montblanc is a town with a prominent walled complex where we can still see towers and doorways in good condition. Each year in April, the Legend of Sant Jordi is re-enacted as part of the Medieval Week events.

THE POBLET MONASTERY

One of the stretches of the Cistercian Route, an itinerary connecting the monasteries of Santes Creus, Poblet and Vallbona de les Monges, leads from Montblanc to Poblet. Since it is only ten kilometres, we decided to take a walk and enjoy the landscape of the Prades Mountains. On reaching the Cistercian monastery of Poblet, an official World Heritage Site, one of the monks tells us that the landscape, in addition to its silence, truly shines in the autumn, when the land offers up the best potatoes, chestnuts and mushrooms.

L’ESPLUGA DE FRANCOLÍ

We continue on towards L’Espluga de Francolí to visit the Museum of Rural Life, where we learn about the values and hard work of the people in the countryside. This is a very moving visit thanks to the familiarity of many of the objects on display there, objects that represent ways of life our grandparents carried on and that have now disappeared. Without leaving the village, we continue to investigate the history of our ancestors but this time we take a much bigger leap through time, entering the Font Major cave to experience the geological and prehistoric past of the Tarragona area. If you’re looking for a bit more adventure, there is also the chance to go on a tour of the caves. From L’Espluga de Francolí we continue our journey to enter the Lleida districts.

第7区間

プラ・ドゥルジェイ(Pla d’Urgell)の油と石とワイン

シトー会のルートを辿ってギマラー(Guimerà)へ。石畳の迷路のような道は城へと繋がり、城からはコルブ(Corb)川の渓谷が一望できます。近くのバイボーナ・ダ・ラズ・モンジャス(Vallbona de les Monges)には、カタルーニャ州最大のシトー会修道院があり、そこでは現在も修道女たちが暮らしています。 プラ・ドゥルジェイへ向かう途中で、バリアーネス(Belianes)、アルベカ(Arbeca)、ラス・ボルジャス・ブランカス(Les Borges Blanques)を通過しますが、この辺りでは、新鮮で味の濃い美味しいオリーブを使った、DOPラス・ガリーガス(les Garrigues)のオリーブオイルが生産されています。リェイダへ向かう途中、エスタニ・デ・イヴァルツ・イヴィラサナ(Estany d’Ivars i Vilasa-na)に立ち寄り、セーリングやバードウォッチングを楽しみ、堂々たるリェイダの旧大聖堂(Seu Vella)と王の城であるラ・スダ(La Suda)の前で、この区間を終えます。

A QUIET VILLAGE

We begin the morning by taking a short detour to visit Guimerà, an excellent example of a rural medieval site. In the early hours of the day we get the chance to walking alone through the streets of a village that is one of the most postcard-perfect communities in Lleida province.

VALLBONA DE LES MONGES

We don’t have much more company at the next stop, just the few nuns who still inhabit the Vallbona de les Monges monastery. They explain to us during the visit that the fact that it is surrounded by the village, unlike the other two with whom it shares the Cistercian Route, is a result of the concessions that the Abbess had to make to overcome the ban imposed by the Council of Trent on female monasteries in isolated locations. After seeing the main spaces, such as the cloister and the souvenir shop where the nuns sell their reproductions of the monastery’s ancient pottery, we follow the route to the Ivars i Vila-sana pond past Belianes, Arbeca and Les Borges Blanques, where they produce the excellent olive oils of D.O.P Les Garrigues.

ARRIVAL IN LLEIDA

In the Ivars i Vila-sana pond we have booked one of the special activities they offer, tagging different bird species. Walking around the perimeter of the aquifer, on a path that’s just over 2.5 kilometres long, we see a space that once dried up and is now vitally important to birds. We arrive at Lleida when the afternoon begins to fade, just in time for a tour of the Seu Vella and the King’s Castle – La Suda. For dinner, we opt for the most traditional way of eating the famous Lleida snails, roasted “a la llauna”, on a metal sheet with handles placed directly over the embers.

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