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天国に近い場所

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天国に近い場所

このコースではリェイダとそのシンボルであるリェイダ旧大聖堂(La Seu Vella)を出発し、平野を抜けてカタルーニャのピレネー山脈に入っていきます。このコースの注目ポイントには、中世の小さな村々が残るアラン谷(Val d’Aran)をはじめ、星空が美しいモンセック(Montsec)、ロマネスク様式の教会が並ぶバル・デ・ボイ(Vall de Boí)などが挙げられます。 また、アイグエストルタス・イ・エスタニー・デ・サン・マウリシ(Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici)国立公園を訪れたり、 ノゲーラ・パリャレサ(Noguera Pallaresa)川でアドベンチャースポーツを楽しんだりしながら、最終地点のラ・セウ・ドゥルジェイを目指します。

データ

総距離

357km

区間

5

名所

6

主要なエリア

リェイダ

コンゴスト・デ・モンレベイ(Congost de Mont-rebei)

アイグエストルタス・イ・エスタニ・デ・サン・マウリシ(Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici) 国立公園

バル・デ・ボイ・のロマネスク教会群

アラン谷

ラ・セウ・ドゥルジェイ

区間

第1区間

リェイダの教会からカタルーニャ州で最も美しい空まで

リェイダの旧大聖堂にある高さ60mもの八角形の鐘楼がそびえ立っている場所からこのコースはスタートします。鐘楼からは、セグラ(Segre)川のほとりに広がる果樹園や平原が一望でき、これまでとは全く異なる風景が広がっているのです。 モンセック(Montsec)山脈へと道は続き、星空保護区に指定されているアジェル(Àger)で、素晴らしい星空を眺めましょう。特に星空観察に最適なモンセック天文公園はおすすめです。また、この地域は絶景も楽しめるスポットで、ノゲラ・リバゴルサーナ(Noguera Ribagorçana)川が侵食して生まれた500mもの垂直絶壁コンゴスト・デ・モンレベイも見られます。その後は、川沿いを進み、ムー（Mu）の細道を通り抜け、 バラゲール(Balaguer)に向かって移動し、貯水池で有名なカマラサ(Camarasa)にたどり着きます。ここでは、カヤックなどのウォーターアクティビティが楽しめます。さらに、ロッククライミングの聖地でもあり、世界中からクライマーが集まる場所でもあります。

LLEIDA’S MONUMENTS

The day starts with a hearty breakfast, featuring pa amb tomàquet, with olive oil from D.O.P Les Garrigues, cured meats and pears that come under the Lleida protected designation of origin, and a walk through La Seu Vella, a temple with a magnificent dome and an octagonal bell tower sixty metres high, offering a panoramic view of the city and the surrounding land. Along with the King’s Castle – La Suda, La Seu is part of a monumental complex that helps us understand the history of the city. This is a land of fields stretching all the way to the horizon, full of fruit orchards and vegetables that will end upin the recipes of many Lleidan dishes. On these fertile plains surrounding Lleida, official City and Town of Character, we visit the castell de Gardeny, which in the twelfth century housed the Templar soldiers based in this area. At the castle, there is the option to live the life of a Templar knight for a day.

CONGOST DE MONT-REBEI

Our next stop will be Balaguer, where we will regain our strength with a coca de recapte, made, of course, with peppers and eggplant from the Lleida gardens. The panoramic road between Balaguer and Baronia de Sant Oïsme is a journey through beautiful landscapes, with views over the Segre river and the magnificent Camarasa reservoir. The landscape around the reservoir, overlooking the Montsec mountain range, is conducive to hiking —one stage of the GR-1 passes through it—, observing cave paintings and even flying in a low-altitude balloon or hang glider. These landscapes are a good prelude to what awaits us at the Congost de Mont-Rebei. The vertiginous landscape and most famous rock in Catalonia can be explored on foot, through a narrow pass, or in a kayak along the Noguera-Ribagorçana river. We decide to stay on land and walk between stone walls whose height, in some sections, exceeds five hundred metres.

A STARLIGHT SKY

Before the day is over, it’s very worthwhile to double back a few miles to Àger and see another one of nature’s great spectacles: a starry night. The mountains of the Montsec, an official Tourist Destination and Starlight Reserve, are home to the Centre d’Observació de l’Univers, where young and old alike learn a little bit more about the mysteries of the cosmos. After an intense, exciting day we set off for La Pobla de Segur, the end point of the historic Tren dels Llacs a journey offering spectacular panoramic views.

第2区間

自然と文化に彩られたバル・デ・ボイ

ピレネー山脈を後にして、バル・デ・ボイに向かう道中に自然の宝庫であるバイ・デ・フォスカ（カタルーニャ語で暗い谷の意味）に立ち寄りましょう。地名の由来は、周りの山の急な勾配が多く、太陽光が隅々まで行き届かないため、暗い谷と付けられたと言われています。エル・ポン・デ・スウェル(El Pont de Suert)からバル・デ・ボイに到着するまでは山道が更に険しくなります。バル・デ・ボイに到着したらユネスコ世界遺産にも登録されている、11～12世紀に建てられた9つのロマネスク様式教会群が待ち受けています。バル・デ・ボイのロマネスクカルチャーセンターでは、ガイド付きツアーを行っており、歴史や文化を学びながら自然を堪能できる場所になっています。バル・デ・ボイはウィンタースポーツ、アドベンチャー、そして手作りソーセージのチョリソー(xolís)を堪能することができます。またカタルーニャ州の星空保護区に指定されるアイグエストルタス・イ・エスタニ・デ・サン・マウリシ国立公園の入り口でもあります。

CATALONIA’S ONLY NATIONAL PARK

The memory of constellations passes the time as we travel between La Pobla de Segur and la Vall de Boí. Upon reaching Senterada, we see the signs for Vall Fosca, another of Catalonia’s natural wonders that deserves a detour. The road begins with gradual ascent to the top of the Coll de la Creu de Perves, with good views of the Pyrenees. From El Pont de Suert, the road passes between hills to the entrance gate of the Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park. At this entrance, there is a park information centre. Catalonia’s only national park allows us to enjoy a spectacular natural setting: more than 200 lakes of glacial origin are surrounded by peaks around 3,000 metres high. In spring and summer, gentians and rhododendrons add a splash of colour to the green meadows.

The National Park has two other entrance points. Boí and Espot are the villages that contain the main centres and where it is necessary to go in order to visit the best-known spaces, such as Aigüestortes and the Estany de Sant Maurici pool. The third entrance is via the villages of Sort and Llessui, where there is also a park information centre.

WALKING THROUGH AIGÜESTORTES

An official Family Nature and Mountain area, the Vall de Boí is a paradise for hikers with trails suitable for all levels, from those with a low difficulty ideal for children to more demanding routes for experienced hikers. We choose to climb to Planell d’Aigüestortes from Boí in a 4×4 taxi, where we start a gentle excursion that will take us to Estany Llong. The path leading up to the Rus hill is the historic road used by the inhabitants of the Vall de Boí to visit Barcelona, before the motorways were built. The same path, although in the opposite direction and on the back of a donkey, was often travelled by the Catalan bourgeoisie on their way from the city to visit the hot springs of Caldes de Boí. After walking we’re getting hunger, luckily the Vall de Boí is an ideal place to try hearty Pyrenean cuisine: mushrooms, shepherd’s cheese and a meat cooked a la llosa are served in the local restaurants.

The Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park has three entrances. One of them is at Boí and Espot, the villages which house the main centres, and where it is necessary to go in order to be able to see the best-known places, such as Aigüestortes and the Estany de Sant Maurici. A second entrance is via the villages of Sort and Llessui, where there is a park information centre. The third is that of Pont de Suert and Senet, where there is also a park information centre

THE BEAUTY OF ROMANESQUE ART

The afternoon will be reserved for the Romanese heritage of la Vall de Boí, which features on the UNESCO World Heritage list. A feudal family, the Erills, brought stonecutters to the valley, masters artisans and craftsmen who in a few decades erected eight churches and a chapel. In Taüll, official Charming Village, we find the quintessence of this Romanesque art, Sant Climent and Santa María, two churches consecrated in 1123, just one day apart. In Sant Climent, video mapping brings the frescoes of the greater apse and sanctuary to life. We stop at Erill la Vall to visit the Centre del Romànic de la Vall de Boí and the church of Santa Eulàlia, which, with its six-storey Lombard tower, is considered the most slender example in the valley. We continue our journey north to reach another of the great Pyrenean valleys: the Val d’Aran.

第3区間

アラン谷のユニークな自然と野生動物

ここの地形及び地理の理解なくして、アラン谷の歴史は語れません。 カタルーニャ州のピレネー山脈に囲まれたこの地域は、長年孤立していた土地であった歴史から、アラン語（Aranés）という独自の言語や習慣が誕生しました。また、中心地ビエーリャには、異なる時代に建築を重ねられ、ロマネスク様式とゴシック様式が混在したサン・ミケル教会があります。ガロンヌ（Garona）川沿いには滝が点在し、ハイキングとセットで楽しむことができます。さらに、ボッソースト（Bossòst）にある野生動物保護区のアラン公園は、オオカミやカワウソなどの野生動物をそこら中で見ることができる場所です。アラン谷を出発する前には、この地域の郷土料理である栄養たっぷりの高山スープ「オリャ・アラネサ（olha aranesa）」を食べてみましょう。

VAL D’ARAN

Dawn breaks in Val d’Aran. The Atlantic orientation of this valley, with almost a third of its land above 2,000 metres, shapes the climate and typology of its forest species, which are different from those found in other parts of the Pyrenees. We soon find that here, things are noticeably different from what we have seen so far. In Vielha, capital of the Val d’Aran, a poster advertising a craft fair hèt a man, hèt aciu (handmade, made here) reminds us that, first of all, here another language is spoken: Aranese. The architecture is also unique, with stone villages growing around a church and others hanging from the hillsides of the mountains, with panoramic views of the valley.

GLACIAL WATERFALLS

From Vielha we drive along the Garona River to one of the most picturesque places in Val d’Aran, Artiga de Lin, a series of green meadows, ravines and rivers that form one of the most beautiful and easily accessible valleys in Val d’Aran. From here, a short walk brings us closer to Els Uelhs Deth Joeu, a waterfall fed by the waters of the Aneto glacier. An exceptional phenomenon, the water disappears four kilometres up in the Benasque Valley only to resurface here in all its strength.

PYRENEAN FAUNA

Forests in this part of the Pyrenees are home to marmots and large deer. When autumn comes, the calls of the deer in rut is the soundtrack to these forests. Throughout our walk we know that the animals are there, but they are hard to see, so in the afternoon we choose to visit Aranpark, in Bossòst, a town of featuring traditional architecture. In this wildlife park, both young and old alike are amazed at the imposing presence of brown bears, lynxes and grey wolves. To finish the day we go back to Vielha. If the visit happens to be on a Tuesday, we can participate in something that is a real institution in this valley, the Pintxo Pote. A bar-hopping route through the old town featuring miniature cuisine.

第4区間

氷河湖と温泉のリラクゼーションの旅へ

この区間ではまず、アラン谷にある石造りのスレート屋根の家々が立ち並ぶ村を散策します。ここではバジェルゲ(Bagergue)にある、標高1419mのピレネー山脈で最も高い所にあるチーズ屋や、アルティエス(Arties)のサンタ・マリア教会を代表とする12世紀のロマネスク建築が残っています。サラルドゥ(Salardú)のサン・アンドレウ(Sant Andrèu)教会に行くと、12世紀に作られたロマネスク彫刻の中で最も貴重なものとして、木彫のキリスト像を見ることができます。 一方、電動式のマウンテンバイクでアラン谷を探索することも可能です。アルティエスとサラルドゥまでの区間では、モンタルド(Montardo)の山頂の壮大な景色を楽しむことができます。また、ヨーロッパで最も高い場所にある温泉「Banhs de Tredòs」では、硫黄泉に浸かりリラックスすることもできます。

VILLAGES OF THE VAL D’ARAN

We have seen that the Val d’Aran is a place of deep superstitions, fire festivals that are an Intangible Cultural Heritage and artisans who spend hours making ceramics, wrought iron and sausages such as the fuet, known here as langoisa seca. The day begins with visits to the towns of Arties, featuring notable Renaissance houses in its old town, and Salardú, where we see one of the aranese Romanesques, Sant Andrèu, a church with an octagonal tower, stunning wall frescoes and its wooden Christ. Arties and Salardú can also be reached via E-BTT, electric mountain bikes. There are other options for getting to known the valley’s quirks, such as the nearby villages of Escunhau, Bagergue and Tredòs, but we believe that the landscapes of the area are best experienced slowly and on foot, so we choose to take another easy hike. If you’re looking for a little more relaxation, you can opt for a visit to the Banhs de Tredòs, the highest-altitude thermal spa in Europe, with a stunning location in the heart of nature.

HIKING IN COLOMÈRS

In his Journey to the Pyrenees of Lleida, Camilo José Cela wrote that the legs are the wings of the heart. Walking the trails is one of the best ways to explore the territory, which is why in the afternoon, starting in Salardú, we take a hike to explore a wonder of nature: the largest lake area in the Pyrenees, the Colomèrs cirque, located within the Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park. The entire route spans seven glacial lakes, but we’re not that ambitious; instead we just climb as far as the shelter. Along the way we pass two lakes, several creeks, bridges and all kinds of rock formations. Once in the shelter, we sit with a coffee in hand to enjoy the views of the Estany de Colomèrs and the surrounding peaks of the mountains it reflects. This is what peace feels like. A couple of short and long circular routes start from the shelter and link the different lakes. We end the day with an aranese olha, a hearty and delicious soup typical of the valley’s cuisine that helps us recharge our batteries.

第5区間

ラフティングやピレネー山脈での田舎暮らし

パリャーズ・スビラー(Pallars Sobirà)に行くと、いつでもアルトピレネー(Alt Pirineu)自然公園の素晴らしい景色、また、乗馬やマウンテンバイク、徒歩またアドベンチャーを満喫することができます。ソートは、カタルーニャでのスポーツツーリズムのデスティネーションとして、滞在をより快適なものにするためのインフラやサービスが備えられています。同様に、リャヴォルシ(Llavorsí)、リアルプ(Rialp)、エステリ・ダネウ(Esterri d’Àneu)、リベラ・デ・カルドス(Ribera de Cardós)などは、ヨーロッパ屈指の急流河川ノゲーラ・パリャレサの川沿いにあるラフティングの名所です。

 

続いて、バイス・ダネウ(Valls d’Àneu)のエコミュージアムに向かいましょう。そこではピレネー山脈にある伝統的な家屋や、20世紀初頭の人々の暮らしぶりを覗くことができます。イシル(Isil)村にあるヒグマの家というカルチャーセンターでは、ピレネー山脈で生息しているヒグマの暮らしも学べます。 次に訪れるラ・セウ・ドゥルジェイは緑が多く魅力的な場所で、カタルーニャ州で唯一、全てをロマネスク様式を用いて造られたサンタ・マリア大聖堂へと続いていきます。カタルーニャ唯一の保護原産地呼称(DOP)が付いているチーズも是非試してみてください。ピレネーの自家製チーズのマルシェにも足を運んでみたりするのもおすすめです。

ACTIVE RIVER TOURISM

After two days where we have barely used the car, we hit the road again and drive straight to Llavorsí, which together with Rialp and Sort (Sports Tourism Destination of Catalonia), is a Catalan capital of rafting. The Noguera Pallaresa River was the first on the peninsula where this sport began to be practice in the 80’s. With its class II, III and IV sections, is among the best white waters of Europe. We don’t want to miss this unique experience, which is also suitable for children, so we put on our wetsuits, helmets and life jackets, and we hop in the river with the invaluable help of the experienced rafter who steers our inflatable boat. In addition to rafting, this area offers other adventure sports, such as hydrospeed, canoeing, canyoning and bungee jumping, among others. If you are looking for a quieter plan, in Valls d’Àneu, another official Family Nature and Mountain area, we have several alternative family outings, such as visiting the Ecomuseu d’Esterri d’Àneu or the Casa de l’Ós Bru dels Pirineus in Isil. At Vall d’Àssua we can learn about the work of the shepherds and visit the Llessui Ecomuseum.

GOOD CHEESE

After all the excitement, a visit to some craftsmen who produce mountain cheese brings our pulse back down to normal. Our goal is to learn about the production process and taste the delicacies made by certain producers whose cheeses have won prestigious prizes such as the World Cheese Award. Before we finish our day in El Pallars Sobirà, take a detour of a few kilometres to visit the picturesque town of Gerri de la Sal, where we visit its walled old town, an eleventh-century monastery, a medieval bridge and salt marshes with its Royal Alfolí, monuments listed as Goods of National Cultural Interest.

AT LA SEU D’URGELL

We continue on to La Seu d’Urgell, in the Alt Urgell district, located between two rivers and in the shadow of the nearby Serralada del Cadí. The late afternoon sun illuminates Santa María, the only fully Romanesque cathedral in Catalonia; we are just in time to visit its fascinating cloister. Here we find the only cheese from Catalonia with a protected designation of origin, a high-quality product made locally. La Seu d’Urgell is considered the Catalan capital of cheese thanks to the importance of the Artisan Cheese Fair of the Pyrenees, held in October during the festival of Sant Ermengol.

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